You’ve got a rack full of cams—but your last trad pitch stalled out in a flaring finger crack narrower than your pinky. Standard cams walked, spun, or just popped out. Frustrating? Absolutely. Here’s the fix most climbers overlook: tricams. Not relics—they’re precision tools for placements where modern gear fails.
Why Most Climbers Misuse or Ignore Tricams
Tricams get dismissed as “old-school” or “niche.” But that’s a mistake born of convenience, not experience. Today’s camming devices dominate racks because they’re fast to place—until the crack tapers weirdly, widens inconsistently, or features shallow pockets. Then, cams either won’t fit or generate lateral torque that wiggles them loose mid-fall.
And here’s the kicker: many climbers never learn how to place tricams correctly. They slap them in like passive nuts, expecting magic. It doesn’t work that way. Tricams require technique—but when placed right, they hold falls better than cams in sub-2-inch cracks.
The Step-by-Step Guide to Placing Tricams Like a Veteran
Assess the Crack Geometry First
Look for constrictions with opposing walls—ideally where one side is slightly overhanging or has a slight pocket. Tricams thrive in irregularities. Smooth, parallel-sided cracks? Skip it.
Choose the Right Size—Not the Obvious One
Counterintuitively, go one size smaller than you think. The camming action happens when the head rotates into the constriction. Too big, and it won’t seat. Too small, and it rattles. Test by hand-tightening—if it grips firmly with moderate pressure, you’re golden.
Placement Technique: Rotate, Don’t Wedge
Insert the tricam passively first. Then, using your fingers or a nut tool, rotate the head so the cam lobe bites into the wall while the stem settles against the opposite side. A clean “click” or resistance means it’s set. Give it a sharp tug—not a yank—before weighting.
| Feature | Tricam (e.g., Clog) | Spring-Loaded Cam (e.g., Camalot) |
|---|---|---|
| Effective Crack Range | 0.5″ – 3″ | 0.75″ – 4.5″+ |
| Weight (per unit) | ~1.8 oz | ~3.5–6 oz |
| Fall Holding Power (thin cracks) | Superior | Moderate to poor |
| Speed of Placement | Slower (requires finesse) | Faster (push-and-go) |
| Cost per Unit | $35–$45 | $60–$90 |
The Industry Secret: Tricams Work Better When They’re Slightly Worn
New tricams have polished heads that slip on smooth granite. But veterans know this: light wear increases friction. After a few placements, the aluminum develops micro-scratches that bite into rock like sandpaper. Don’t sand them—but don’t retire them after surface marring either.
Here’s what no brand will admit: the original Wild Country Clog design from the 80s still outperforms most modern iterations in limestone and sandstone. Newer alloys are harder but slicker. If you can source used vintage units in good condition, grab them. The metallurgy was less refined—and ironically, more grippy.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are tricams safer than cams?
In thin, irregular cracks—yes. In parallel or wide cracks, cams win. Safety depends on correct placement, not the tool alone.
Can beginners use tricams effectively?
Not immediately. Spend time practicing placements on the ground first. Their learning curve is steeper but pays off in alpine or desert cracks where cams fail.
Do tricams work in wet or icy conditions?
Better than cams. With no moving parts to freeze, tricams remain reliable when slings ice up or cam springs stiffen in cold temps.
